A very early Cadillac.
  • Franklin Series 11A Wiring
    A compilation from the Franklin Series 11 Parts Book combining the listing of wiring, with wire sizes, colours and the types of terminals on the ends of the wires. In a small number of cases the wire is more than one wire made as a part, so a 5 digit Franklin Drawing number is given with no wire specifications. The terminals are “decoded” with the diagram at the end of this post that shows the type and dimensions of the various specified terminals. The most common type – “30 x 31” is mentioned in more detail in this posting.  
      Reference Number Drawing Number Description Length Wire Code Wire Size Wire Colour Terminals
    Starting Motor and Switch R-5722 4×816 Starting switch to starting motor wire     Black  
      R-5725 4×99 Starting Switch to Feed Terminal Block 26 4 x 13 #8 Black 30 x 22 30 x 24
    Battery Indicator (Ammeter) Wiring R-5726 4×910 Ammeter to Feed Terminal 42 4 x 13 #8 Black 2 – 30 x 24
      R-5727 4×2446 Ammeter to Generator Terminal 46½ 4 x 22 #12 Brown 30 x 31 30 x 15
    Generator Wiring R-5730 32179 Generator and Ignition wire assembley          
    Ignition Wiring R-5732 4×2447 Ignition switch to ignition terminal 46½ 4 x 17 #14 Red 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5733 27778 Ignition instrument to spark coil wire 7 48 x 3 Spark Plug Wire    
      R-5734 4×2448 Ignition switch to battery indicator (Ammeter) 7 4 x 17 #14 Red 30 x 15 30 x 31
      R-5736 4×2421 Spark Coil to Ignition Instrument wire 15 4 x 17 #14 Red 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5738 4×2425 Ignition instrument ground 6 4 x 25 #14 Yellow 30 x 11 30 x 12
    Primer Wiring R-5740 4×97 Primer switch to battery indicator (Ammeter) 9 4 x 13 #8 Black 30 x 23 30 x 24
      R-5741 4×912 Primer switch to primer terminal block 40 4 x 13 #8 Black 30 x 23 30 x 24
      R-5742 4×911 Primer coil to primer terminal block 34 4 x 13 #8 Black 30 x 24 30 x 25
    Horn Wiring R-5743 4×2445 Battery indicator to horn fuse 45½ 4 x 16 #14 Yellow w 2 Blue 30 x 15 30 x 31
      R-5744 32177 Horn wire assembley          
      R-5746 4×2460 Horn button to binding post 46½ 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red 30 x 13 30 x 31
    Lighting Wiring R-5748 4×2454 Lighting switch to panel fuse wire 44½ 4 x 16 #14 Yellow w 2 Blue 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5749 4×2459 Panel lamp to panel fuse wire 71 4 x 16 #14 Yellow w 2 Blue 30 x 17 30 x 31
      R-5752 4×2458 Panel lamp to tail light wire terminal block 45 4 x 17 #14 Red 30 x 17 30 x 31
      R-5753 32180 Tail and stop light wire complete          
      R-5757 4×2449 Stop light switch to fuse wire 46½ 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red 30 x 13 30 x 31
      R-5758 4×2450 Lighting switch to bright fuse wire 46½ 4 x 19 #14 Green w 2 Yellow 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5760 32178 Headlight cable complete with terminals          
      R-5764 4×2451 Lighting switch to dimmer fuse wire 46½ 4 x 25 #14 Yellow 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5766 4×2453 Dome light switch to panel wire 26½ 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red 30 x 15 30 x 31
        4×2473 Dome lamp switch to panel lamp wire 46½ 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red 30 x 15 30 x 31
      R-5768 4×2452 Dome light switch to dome light fuse wire 40½ 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red 2 – 30 x 31
      R-5770 4×1519 Dome light door switch to dome light fuse wire 152 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red  
      R-5771 4×1525 Dome light door switch to dome light wire 129 4 x 15 #14 Tan w 1 Red  
      R-5772 4×2444 Dome light door switch to panel lamp wire 186 4 x 16 #14 Yellow w 2 Blue 1 – 30 x 17
      R-5773 4×2432 Dome light to ground wire 135 4 x 14 #14 Black 1 – 30 x 16
        4×2482 Cigar lighter and trouble lamp to ammeter wire 22 4 x 16 #14 Yellow 30 x 15 30 x 31
    This table is available to download as a single page PDF or a two page PDF. The image below shows the different types of wire specified by Franklin for use in the car – not a whole lot of choices and colours needed.

    From the Franklin Parts book, showing the different gauges and colours of wiring specified for use in the car.

      The image below shows the different types of terminals that Franklin specified for use on the wiring in the car.

    From the Franklin Series 11 Parts Manual showing the listing of terminals used.

  • Franklin Wiring Terminals
    Many of the wiring connections on my 1926 Franklin are made with ring terminals as shown in these images. The wire is wrapped around the end of the terminal and then the “legs” folded over like an eyelet/rivet as used in clothing, shoes, etc. 

    The insulation has broken off and shows the wire on the left, through the terminal and wrapped around the eyelet hole which is crimped over the wires.

    Shows the legs lifted up enough to free the wire, and the wire partly unwound from the terminal.

    Shows the terminal with wire removed. Legs partly folded up.

    Franklin refers to them as Reference Number R-5813, Drawing Number 30×31, “Wire Terminal. Light friction type (3/16″ hole) Hand punch for attaching 30 x 31 terminals can be secured from United Shoe Machine Co., Boston, Mass.”

    From Franklin Series 11A parts manual shows their description of these terminals, and that had I been around 90 years ago I could buy them for $0.01 each!

    Several hours of searching online have failed to reveal anyone selling these in 2016 – 90 years later, but did turn up the patent applied for in 1923, granted in 1928 for the machine to put these terminals on the wire. See
  • Seal Cove Auto Emblems
    Thursday was supposed to be “ride a bicycle around some of the Carriage Road” day, but it rained pretty much all day, so that idea got put on hold (or probably actually cancelled for 2010). The afternoon saw us heading off to see the Seal Cove Auto Museum – “The Brass with the Class”. We had been before in 2008 (I think it was), just as they were getting ready to sell a sizable portion of the collection in order to be able to settle the estate of the founder of the museum who had died. While there we took the opportunity to become “Charter Members” of the museum.
    Firestone Wheel

    Firestone Wheel

    White Wheel

    White Wheel

    Below is a photo gallery of the radiator emblems of some of the cars that are remaining.
  • Out with the Olde…

    How to remove the spark plug boots from a 2002 GM Chevrolet Camaro V6 engine without losing all your knuckle skin.

    Our 2002 Camaro has now done 99,000 miles, so with a trip “out East” coming up I figured it was time to change the spark plugs since they’re supposed to be changed at 100,000 miles. Of course nothing is as easy as it used to be, and the spark plugs are buried “way down there” on the sides of the V6 engine, half back under the windscreen on the car, with the spark plug boots sticking out through the exhaust manifold enough to see them, but barely enough to grip them. I did manage to pull one off “by hand” with the loss of only a small amount of skin, but couldn’t even move the other 5. So off to AutoZone (I had to buy the new plugs anyhow) to ask if they had a tool to pull these things off with. The only tool they had would have require removing the engine to be able to use it, at which time it wouldn’t be needed anyhow. So, with some Kiwi Ingenuity™ I devised the Kiwi Spark Plug Boot Puller, which worked amazingly well, and allowed me to pull the remaining 5 spark plug boots off in about 5 minutes.
    Kiwi Spark Plug Boot Puller

    A shoe lace wrapped around the metal shield that is over the rubber spark plug boot, ready to pull it off.

    The metal tube around the spark plug boots has a groove in it as can be seen on the #4 cylinder at the very bottom of the image above. It is enough to hold a shoelace that is doubled and tightened in a loop around the tube into the groove.
    Kiwi Spark Plug Boot Puller II

    I thought for the photos a white shoe lace might show up better, but as it turns out they're both pretty visible.

    Here we see laces in the #6 and #4 cylinders
    Pull, but don't slip

    In the very close quarters down by the engine, the shoe lace allows to pull directly out, while wiggling up and down a bit to break the seal between the spark plug boot and the spark plug.

    With the shoelace tightened in the groove, now you can pull directly outwards on the tube and spark plug boot, with zero strain on the actual spark plug wire. Slight wiggling up and down while pulling outwards helps to break the bond between the spark plug and the spark plug boot, allowing it to “pop” off.

    The spark plug boot removed. The shoelace is firmly wrapped in a groove around the top of the metal tube.

    New and Old

    AC Delco Professional 41-101 Iridium spark plugs. The old one on right has done 99,000 miles. The tip is worn down about .010

    Comparison of olde and new – the olde plug has done 99,000 miles, and the tip is clearly worn down, but not by a whole lot – about .010″
 Posted by at 2:20 pm

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